Whelen Lights

Full Size

Plus-Size Revelation: Bigger Women Have Cash, Too

Corseted into a size 18 white denim dress, wearing heels that made her about 6-foot-2, Gwen DeVoe, a former model and fashion-show producer, stepped onto a runway in Manhattan this week and made a pitch to retailers for the plus-size woman.

Those stores that don't carry bigger sizes? "Shame on you, baby, shame on you," Ms. DeVoe said. "Every curvy girl that has a dollar is willing to spend that dollar."

So retailers are realizing.

That same day, a division of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention reported that 28 percent of the adult population was obese last year, the highest percentage yet. Almost two-thirds of American women are either overweight or obese, according to the most recent CDC figures.

As doctors and public health officials encourage Americans to slim down, the fashion industry is embracing Americans as they are. Both mass-market stores like Forever 21 and Target and expensive designers like Elie Tahari are deciding the fattening of America is a big business opportunity, and are reinvigorating a market that had faltered during the recession.

The standard clothing that most stores have focused on in recent years fits fewer and fewer people. And as retailers search for ways to invigorate sales, plus size is one of the few categories where there is growth. The plus-size market increased 1.4 percent while overall women's apparel declined 0.8 percent in the 12 months leading up to April 2010 versus the same period a year earlier, the most recent figures available, according to NPD Group, a market research firm.

"It just makes business sense," said Ms. DeVoe, who founded "Full-Figured Fashion Week" last year to press mainstream retailers to embrace bigger sizes. "I've been told several times that no one fantasizes about being a plus-size woman, and that's probably true, but the fact remains that you have to work with what you have."

That is not always so easy for retailers venturing into the world of larger shoppers. Some bigger women do not like to try on clothes in the same fitting rooms as smaller women. Plus-size stocks take up valuable storage space, and not everyone is big in the same way, meaning stores cannot count on, say, a size 16 dress fitting most 180-pound women — one might have a larger torso, another big thighs and another wider hips.

"There are variations not only in the frame, but if you're looking at larger women, you're also looking at the way fat deposits are arranged around the body," said Susan Ashdown, a professor at Cornell who studies body shape and clothing fit by creating a three-dimensional scan of a person's almost-nude body.

Plus-size clothes, which now generally begin at size 14, have been around for at least 90 years, since a Lithuanian immigrant, Lena Bryant (her name was later misspelled as "Lane" on a business form), turned a maternity-wear business into a line for stout women in the 1920s. There have been several efforts to make plus-size clothes more available, but, as the name of the 1980s-era plus-size chain The Forgotten Woman suggested, larger women have usually been relegated to stand-alone boutiques stocked with shapeless purple caftans.

"One of the things that happens with plus-size women is, as a rule, they're pretty under-served," said Bill Bass, president of Sonsi, a social networking and retail site for heavier women. "The big companies forget about them or ignore them, or make them go online to buy their clothes since they won't have them in stores."

Although Americans have grown steadily heavier in the last decade, women's plus-size clothing still makes up only 17 percent of the women's apparel market today, according to NPD. There just is not much supply or variation in plus-size clothes for women to buy, said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD. And the big retailers have mostly stayed away.

Cost is one issue. Plus-size clothes are more difficult, and expensive, to make than more traditional sizes. Material can be the largest portion of a garment's cost — up to about 60 percent — and larger sizes require not only more of it, but sometimes different production processes.

"Its not just about how much fabric is required," said Deepa Neary, a retail consultant at A.T. Kearney, a consulting firm. "You're actually using wider bolts of fabric, and that sometimes requires special machinery to produce the garments. You often don't get to pass that on to the consumer, so your margins are not as high as the regular-size clothing."

And with limited floor space, retailers say it's hard to display, say, blouses from size 0 to 24. So the plus market "unfortunately gets treated like an exile," said Kathy Bradley-Riley, senior vice president for merchandising at the trend forecasting firm Doneger Group.

Given those difficulties, some companies have pulled back on plus-size offerings. Old Navy and Ann Taylor stopped selling plus sizes in stores in the last few years, and now sell them only online. Liz Claiborne, which still sells some plus-size clothing, shut down its plus-size line Elisabeth, along with Sigrid Olsen, which carried larger sizes. It sold Ellen Tracy, which also had a plus-size offering. But given the strong sales in the sector more recently, and women becoming ever more overweight, some companies are giving the plus-size market a second look.

The chain Forever 21, which is based in California, introduced Faith 21, its larger-size line, last year. Though sales were much stronger than the company expected, that did not mean it had mastered the category. "We have been working through the kinks even now," said Linda Chang, Forever 21's director of marketing. "It doesn't come as easily as maybe the smaller clothing would."

Last summer, Target began carrying a line called Pure Energy that translated young, trendy clothes to larger sizes, adding to its more mature plus-size offerings.

"We definitely view this category as a growth opportunity," said a Target spokeswoman, Katie Heinze. After testing Pure Energy in some stores, Target decided to carry it in all 1,740 outlets.

Elie Tahari, the high-end designer, began selling a plus-size line this year, and at Full-Figured Fashion Week, more than 25 other designers showed their plus-size clothes to an audience of retail buyers and plus-size women.

Backstage before a runway show on Wednesday night, it looked like a sorority house before a formal: shoes everywhere, makeup stacked on tables, the smell of hairspray and baby powder, and women lounging about in silk robes.

On stage, Ms. DeVoe emphasized that plus-size women were ready to buy clothes.

As the crowd whooped, Ms. DeVoe shouted, "My pockets are fat!"

 

From and see more at:
http://shoes4woman.com/2010/06/22/plus-size-revelation-bigger-women-have-cash-too/

About the Author

Plus-Size Revelation: Bigger Women Have Cash, Too

QuikCool Full-Coverage Brief $19.95 "We dare you to find a more comfortable and sumptuous brief. We have cut this beautiful style for a woman, with full coverage yet with a sleek and slightly sexy appeal. But the secret to this popular style is the fabric. QuikCool is silky soft and stretchy, with the wicking power that makes all the difference. These wicking plus size panties push moisture away from your body keeping you dry and comfortable in all temperatures. Say goodbye to clammy plus size underwear. Junonia has carefully fit these for the plus size shape, and added a double inner gusset and soft, no-chafe bound edges at both the leg and waist. Enjoy the light stretchy support for active and all-day casual wear. Versatile and fast-drying, these briefs are perfect for sport, active and everyday casual wear. Antimicrobial and fast-drying, QuikCool is just the ticket for travel. "

Glamorise: Full Support Performance Bra $41.95 "With true support and bounce control, this bra is uniquely designed for the fuller figure. Feel totally confident for all your activities, from the gym to walking. It is so comfortable you’ll love wearing it all day long. The unique camisole design looks pretty peaking out of a v-neck, and it also provides superior bounce control. Extra plus size control comes from a soft wide band and an extra layer of support under the bust. The fabrics are breathable and wicking, carefully selected to push moisture away from your skin, keeping you dry and comfortable. Add this quick-drying bra to your travel packing list! The back features supportive two way stretch and the wide shoulder straps are easily adjustable. "

Stretch Twill Full-Leg Pant $49.99 "With slightly wider legs, curved back yoke and jean-style pockets with coin pocket, these slightly stretchy bottoms wear like your favorite jeans. Partial side elastic waist is smooth-fitting and non-bulky. Front zip fly. Belt loops. "

Glamorise Magic Lift Full Figure Support Bra $19.95 "Cushioned, cross-under inner bust band and soft shoulder design with wide straps provides underwire-style support without the wires. A wide bottom band keeps everything in place and prevents rolling. "

Glamorise Lightly Lined Full-Figure Bra $19.95 "Lace-embellished bra provides extra comfort with super-wide, foam-cushioned straps; smooth, lightly lined cups and back-adjusting straps for a custom fit."

Junowear Full-Coverage Lacy Cotton Cami $19.95 "Pretty princess-style camisole hugs your curves. Beautiful soft and stretchy lace in a sweetheart neckline won’t scratch and looks just slightly sexy peeking out from under a jacket or top. Wide straps for nice bra coverage, and a perfectly cut armhole. Layer this top quality mid-weight cotton stretch knit under tops for winter warmth or wear alone in warm weather. "

Super Jersey Long Sleeve Crewneck Tee $19.98 "This long sleeve classic tee features size vents and a slight A-line shape for full coverage and easy movement. Made of a heavier weight cotton that never clings and shaped just for the plus size woman."

Juno Stretch Naturals Bra Top $29.95 "Two layers of luxurious cotton with Spandex fabric provide confident plus size support with a full-cut design that is longer at the sides. Slightly higher in front and a scooped back provides good bounce control with full comfortable coverage. Soft no-chafe covered elastic band makes getting in and out easy."

Junowear All-Cotton Classic Brief $12.95 "Our best-selling brief ever! This generous full-cut plus size classic features a comfortable knit elastic waistband and non-chafe stretch edging at the leg. Natural waistline fit with a conservative leg. "

AquaSport Easy Zip Swimsuit $74.96 "We’ve added comfort and stylish flair to our AquaSport collection with this zip-front design. Fresh and comfy racer back design features a zip-front for easy on and off, with chafe-free zipper backing. Extremely flattering with contrasting black binding and curved side panels. Shoulders are carefully fit for the plus size woman for full and comfortable coverage, no chafing, and a full range of motion you’ll love as you do your laps or in aqua class. Inside is a full powermesh shelf bra with brushed elastic band that extends around the whole body for comfortable plus size support. 50 UPF UV Sun Protection."

Junowear Double-Layer Double Scoop Cotton Stretch Sport Bra $39.95 "Surprising and confident support from two full layers of top-quality Cotton/Lycra, with both layers surrounding the body. Soft and comfy, this customer favorite is cut for the plus size woman, with full coverage at the sides, wider shoulder straps, and cut slightly higher in the front and scoop back. This is the best support you've ever felt in a cotton stretch sports bra. "

ActiveLife Pineapple Pant $59.95 "For the evenly proportioned plus size woman, the pineapple shape flatters her athletic build. A slightly fuller waist and hip with not-too-full thigh, this pant finishes with a wider leg in an elegantly stretchy fabric. Features invisible zipper slash pockets and a covered elastic waist. "

Superfit Seamless Brief $14.95 "The ultimate in soft and luxurious comfort. This seamless brief is cut for the plus size form with a full, stay-put design with no seams, so no chafing! The fabric is a highly durable, wicking blend that dries quickly for travel and sport, that feels like washable silk! One inch soft, knit-in waistband stays put. This brief will move with you and feel like a second skin. Wear it every day. A touch of cotton is seamlessly knit into the gusset for breath-ability. The sizing for Seamless products is different than Standard Junonia Sizing.If your body measurements are at the higher end of the size range for a given size, we recommend ordering the larger size.Please reference the Seamless size chart for our recommendation."

QuikCool Double-Scoop Bra Top $29.95 "Looking for a plus size bra top that is soft, light and supremely comfortable? QuikCool plus size bra tops are the answer. This dual layer, fully-lined plus size bra, offers light support while the wicking fabric is smooth and sumptuous. It surrounds the body to push moisture away from the skin to keep you dry and comfortable. Wear this plus size style during yoga, under a casual tee, or even sleeping. Cut for a plus size woman, this sporty top can be worn for low-impact activities or casual wear. Tee shirts slide over the smooth fabric. You’ll love the careful Junonia cut. It is longer at the sides for full and flattering fit, and slighter higher front and back for support. The armholes are not too tight, yet have excellent coverage and the wider straps support and can cover a plus size bra for extra support. Antimicrobial and fast-drying, QuikCool dries quickly, and is perfect for travel. "

UV-Protective Stretch Nylon Half-Zip Pullover $19.95 "We designed this versatile plus size pullover to protect you from the sun. It does that beautifully with UPF 50 and the highest possible UV rating. But then we noticed how versatile it is! We cut this plus size jacket long with princess seams to give you a flattering plus size jacket over plus size leggings and even a plus size bathing suit swimsuit on the beach. The arms are cut full for air flow, and roll up with tabs, and it has side slits for easy moving. This womanly plus size jacket also serves as a wind breaker jacket and is a perfect travel companion, ready for any activity, or those casual walks on the beach. Front slit pockets, quarter zip neckline "

Junowear Comfort Edge French Cut Brief $6.48 "You’ll love the special soft rib-edge that guarantees your chafe-free comfort. It completely covers the elastic at the leg and the waistline. French-cut style is full at the stomach, and has a full seat, while freeing the leg for easy movement. Beautiful, smooth and long-lasting 100% Cotton knit."

Crinkle Cotton Floral Print Camp Shirt $49.95 "The floral print of this roomy button-front shirt is full of exquisite detail. Crinkle Cotton fabric is light and comfy for warm summer days. Side vents. "

QuikWik Sports and Travel Comfort Brief $29.95 "Combine four-way stretch with medium control and support and you have a brief that feels amazing. Beautifully constructed in our classic Quikwik fabric that wicks moisture and moves with you. Ideal from active workouts to relaxing at home. Wicking action moves moisture away from your skin for dry comfort. Pack these fast-drying briefs for travel, too! Conservative full-coverage plus size fit with fully encased non-chafing elastics. 50 UPF UV Sun Protection. "

Junowear Soft and Stretchy Bra Top $39.95 "Enjoy the ultimate in bra top comfort. Extra stretchy fabric has a luxurious, brushed finish, and it is easy to pull on and off. Beautifully made from moisture-wicking Supplex, one of the softest and yet toughest materials on the market. We cut this plus size bra top for a full and comfortable fit, slightly higher at the front with a scoop back. The entire bra top is double layered in the main fabric for a secure, yet soft control. Fully covered elastic for no-chafe comfort. Perfect for relaxing, yoga, light control, and casual wear. "

Center Seam Split V-Neck Smocked Tee $29.95 "Such attention to detail! This full-cut plus size shirt features a longer short sleeve and Junonia’s popular center seam detailing. The split vee neckline is made even more stunning with smocked detailing all around the neckline. Beautiful soft and smooth cotton stretch knit is the perfect non-cling weight. Let it flow! "

ActiveLife Apple Pant $59.95 "Uniquely designed for the apple-shaped plus size woman, this pant has a soft, wide waistband that can be worn in two ways: fully extended or rolled over at waist. Wonderful for full secure coverage at the waist for the rounder woman, it is also nice for the woman who likes the rolled-at-the-hip look. Slimmer through the leg and seat, it finishes in a straight leg. Invisible zipper slash pockets. "

Seashell Lined Swim Skirt $44.96 "This sporty, mid-thigh, stretchy and full-cut swim skirt features a built-in brief. A very swimmable style, cut a little shorter than our longer swim skirt, it is perfect for showing off your great gams! The built in brief has a comfortable plus-size fit and a conservative leg opening. Fully covered no-chafe elastic waist. Embroidered with a Junonia seashell at the hem, your guarantee of exceptional fit and quality. Mix and Match. 50 UPF UV Sun Protection. "

Juno French Knit Straight Leg Pants $59.95 "Gorgeous knit in a skimming mid-weight with excellent stretch and re-bound. No baggy knees! Curved back yoke for a perfect plus size fit. Elegant details abound: wide hems, hidden zipper slash pockets, trendy cargo pockets on the leg, full soft elastic waist with inner draw cord. Tonal embroidered Junonia logo at the hip."

Packable Apple Fit Sport Pant $19.99 "These are a steal! If you love our black cotton plus size stretch pants, (and who doesn’t?) you’ll love having a pair of our best selling plus size pants in this warm and versatile cocoa brown color. Match up these woman-friendly plus size pants with your plus size tops in light blue, mango, and even black! The fabric is smooth with just the right amount of stretch for ease. Toss these in and out of the wash; they just bounce back into shape, keeping you looking your best. They not only look good, but these are incredibly comfortable. We cut these plus size pants full just for the plus size shape with a soft covered elastic waist. The legs and seat on this pant are cut for a slim appeal. Wear these for casual, for walking, and even to active pursuits like yoga class. Cling-free cotton/spandex is durable and just so comfortable. These even have side seam pockets for all our pocket-loving customers! Buy two or you’ll regret it! "

Junowear Comfort Edge Classic Brief $12.95 "Popular classic style with the added guarantee of chafe-resistance. All-cotton briefs are edged in a soft rib that completely covers the elastic at the conservative leg opening and the natural waistline. Full cut provides excellent coverage and comfort."

Summer Solutions Sand & Surf Multi-Purpose Swimsuit Cleaner $12.95 "Sand & Surf is a cleaning solution designed to remove irritants, salt, and harmful oils from swimsuits. The ocean is full of sand and dirt that can cause skin irritation, but now, with Sand "

AquaSport Crossback Tank Dress $129.95 "Such a secure feeling! A full inner tank suit lines this longer A- line swim dress with cute front slits and figure-flattering princess seams. Inside is an around-the-body powermesh shelf bra with soft under-bust brushed elastic. The front zipper is chafe-free with soft backing, and it allows for easy on and off. Add the special Junonia plus size cross back with keyhole and you have the most flattering swim dress all around! Top layer is carefully stitched to under tank to avoid the dreaded “float-up effect.� Armholes and neck are carefully fit and bound for no-chafe coverage and freedom of motion. 50 UPF UV Sun Protection."

Seashell Lined Swim Short $44.96 "From sand volleyball, to castle-building, to your favorite aqua class, these flattering, full-cut shorts are simply-- just right! The built in brief has a comfortable plus-size fit and a conservative leg opening. When you step into the hot tub, the air caught between the layers escapes through Junonia’s exclusive Bubble Vent design! These stretchy shorts feature a fully covered no-chafe elastic waist. Sun protective fabric protects sensitive thighs. Embroidered with a Junonia seashell, your guarantee of exceptional fit and quality. Mix and Match. 50 UPF UV Sun Protection. "

Seashell Shirred Neckline Longer Swim Dress $89.96 "You’ve never felt this secure and happy in a swimsuit! This swim dress has everything you’ll love, including a longer length. Start with the lovely shirred detail neckline, and add princess seams, and slight A-line shape to your curves, with cute front slits for ease of motion. Slightly higher necklines front and back ensure swim ability and maximum flattery. Underneath is a full inner tank suit for complete comfort. Extra plus size bust support from the around- the-body QuikShape powermesh shelf bra with no-chafe bushed elastic band. 50 UPF UV Sun Protection. (Also available in a 33.5� shorter length, see style Style #537319.)"

Euro Jersey by Terry Bicycle $49.95 "So versatile! This short sleeve shirt has a full-front zipper, for you to layer up or down. Pack this in your panier! Bright fun CitrusZest print also have reflective trim for safety. Road and trail ready with three open stuff rear pockets and a longer tail for on-bike coverage. 100% fast-drying poly with superior sun protection. MYNX UV offers permanent sun protection up to 50 UPF rating. A.M.Y.permanently inhibits the growth of odor causing bacteria, mold, mildew and algae on fabric.Terry sizes run smaller than Junonia, so please order one size larger than usual. "

Reversible PerfecTemp Fleece Double Warm Vest $49.95 "Campers, bikers, bird watchers, early morning walkers! Don’t miss out on this fabulous deal! Two full layers of top-quality, beautiful- feeling PerfectTemp plus size fleece. And if you get this hard-working womanly vest dirty—it just reverses to another cute look! Zip pockets on BOTH sides (we think of everything!) Bonfires on the beach, Bananagrams in the tent, running errands, and cheering on your team! And on that long car-ride home, you can loan it to the kids for a back seat pillow! You’ll love the colors and prints. Have fun reversing to reflect your mood. This carefully constructed plus size vest has top-stitched detailing throughout, two-way zipper at the front, and is beautifully trimmed in black all around. Zippered hand pockets have a smooth non-bulky tricot lining. Embroidered with Junonia Spirit logo at top of hood. "

Packable Pinapple Fit Pant $29.95 "Straight leg design with a fuller cut makes these active pants an ideal fit for women with a classic curvy shape and an all-around full figure. Lightweight, wrinkle-resistant knits in a soft, cling-free fabric contain a touch of spandex for durable comfort for walking, yoga or casual wear. Full elastic waistband, side seam pockets. "

QuikWik Mesh Tank $34.98 "The innovative design of this sporty, fitted tank includes a built-in shelf bra for extra support and a small back keyhole detail for fun flair. Racerback design allows a full range of motion. QuikWik Mesh accents at the curved side and neckline insets are flattering and cooling. Flatlock seams at neckline and armholes prevent chafing. "

Packable Pear-Fit Sport Pant $29.95 "Fuller hip design and soft support make these active pants an ideal fit for women with a inchpearinch shape: wider figure below the waistline. The soft, cling-free fabric of this lightweight, wrinkle-resistant knit contains a touch of spandex for durable comfort for walking, yoga or casual wear. Full elastic waistband, side seam pockets. "

Packable Knit Crew Neck Tank $9.99 "Classic tank top features bust dart on neckline for great fit and full coverage. Our lightweight, wrinkle-resistant knits contain a touch of spandex for light, cling-free support and a “memory� that retains its shape even after repeated washings. "

AquaSport Swim Short with Brief $39.95 "These comfy and multi-purpose shorts are equally great for pool and play; from jogging to seashelling on the beach. Inner built-in brief has an easy yet supportive fit with a conservative leg. The mid-thigh outer short is full and flattering, with no-chafe, fully encased elastic. When you step into a hot tub or pool, the exclusive BubbleVent lets out any air caught between the layers. The special AquaSport fabric is fast-drying and nearly impervious to chlorine. Why? This fabric builds stretch into the knitting process and uses NO spandex for maximum chlorine and fade resistance. You’ll love these plus size shorts – for a very long time! Mix and Match. 50 UPF UV Sun Protection. "

AquaSport Crossback Tank Suit $74.96 "Here are the two best reasons to buy this suit. First, it looks great on and feels equally good, with amazing support. We designed the cross back to flatter your back with a cute cutout, but more importantly, to be easy on-and-off. In addition, we designed it with full coverage at the underarm and leg, but with without any restriction of movement. The front double fabric shelf bra connects to the back strap system for nice control in this very popular plus size suit. But the second reason you’ll love this suit is that it lasts longer than any other suit you’ve ever worn. Aquasport has NO spandex, so it can’t break down the way most suits do in chlorine. It dries very fast, and fades very slowly. The “mechanical� stretch is comfy, but not quite as controlling as our spandex/lycra options. 50 UPF UV Sun Protection. "

High-Waist Ski Pant $149.95 "The perfect choice for serious warmth. Designed to keep cold and snow out! Stretchy rib knit side panels allows easy movement without any extra bulk. Full cut for easy movement, we have used a low bulk hi-warmth insulation for a sleek look. Removable elasticized suspenders feature front loops for easy removal and a D-ring. Innovatively designed, these plus size pants are windproof and waterproof using quiet fabrics. Beautifully constructed with all the details you want. Snap placket at leg reveals hidden leg gaiters with sealable side openings. Gripper elastic leg openings keep the snow out. Front zip fly features flap-and-snap closure for easy on and off when you head in to the lodge. Crotch gusset for a comfortable fit. Water-resistant zippers, scuff guards, zipper pockets and zipper vents, reticulated knees. Fully seam-sealed for waterproof play all day, no matter the weather!"

High Control: Underwire Contour Sport Bra $29.95 "Looking for more bustline definition? Add this smooth, seam-free underwire design to your sport bra collection. Lovely high-motion sport support. Excellent moisture controlling wicking fabrics and a full-range-of-motion back design that keeps your straps in place. Fully adjustable for all heights. Maia from Moving Comfort. "

Super Jersey Short-Sleeve Polo $29.99 "Our Super Jersey fabric raises the question – how can something be so soft and so tough at the same time? Sorry, but we’re not going to give away any trade secrets. Suffice it to say that this heavier, top-quality cotton material will provide you with garment-dyed color and pre-shrunk comfort for years to come. Longer, full-cut polo features generous sleeves and a drop neck with pretty shell buttons. Side vents for easy movement. Embroidered with our signature seashell. "